Boris Pasternak wrote that when spring enters Peredelkino, it's time to forget city habits and take the nearest train to this secluded corner
Vokrug sveta figured out why you should find time in May to visit the famous writers' village.
A land with history
This place, located near the Peredelka River, has been known since the 17th century. Previously, there was the village of Peredeltsy, where one of the family nests of the princes Dolgorukovs and Samarins was located, whose Izmalkovo estate has been partially preserved.
Why such eminent families built dachas for themselves there can be explained by the unique microclimate that Peredelkino is still famous for. It arose because of the dense pine forests surrounding this land: it is quite humid here and the air is clean. Back in Tsarist Russia, there was a tuberculosis dispensary here, free of charge for patients, and later a sanatorium for the Bolsheviks appeared. USSR.
The patrimony of geniuses
Already in 1936, Boris Pasternak moved to Peredelkino and stayed in the village until the end of life. Here he wrote his significant works after a protracted (10 years, not a line!) Writer's crisis: from his pen comes Doctor Zhivago, a novel that made him famous all over the world.
Pasternak also translates Shakespeare and Goethe here, creates a “Peredelkino” cycle of poems.
In addition to Pasternak's dacha, in Peredelkino you can visit the museums of Korney Chukovsky and Bulat Okudzhava, museum-gallery of Yevgeny Yevtushenko. The house-museum of Chukovsky presents a huge library of the famous writer, in which there are more than 5 thousand books, & nbsp; – a real dream of a bibliophile!
In the house-museum of Bulat Okudzhava, you can not only see the atmosphere in which the bard lived, but also feel the spirit of the sixties. The so-called Bulatov Saturdays and Sundays are held here – club meetings with performances, poetry readings, puppet shows, songs. By the way, May 9 is the birthday of Bulat Okudzhava, so if you decide to go to the village for May holidays, you will definitely get to the holiday.
The Yevgeny Yevtushenko Museum-Gallery, which was opened in 2010, is a real art museum. Here are photographs taken by the poet himself, & nbsp; – a slice of the great and outgoing era, & nbsp; – as well as from the collection of the poet, the work of such masters as Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Niko Pirosmani, Sergei Moiseenko. Many works of art were donated by the authors personally to Yevgeny Yevtushenko. So lovers of painting and photography will definitely like this place.
Also in Peredelkino is the open-air museum of Zurab Tsereteli, opened in 2016. The largest sculptor, painter, muralist often holds his master classes in the village.
Initially, there were about 50 dachas in Peredelkino, built in the 1930s according to the designs of German architects, but after the Great Patriotic War, the village grew significantly. Chingiz Aitmatov, Isaac Babel, Ilya Ilf, Fazil Iskander, Konstantin Paustovsky and Ilya Ehrenburg have been here.
There is also a cemetery where Boris Pasternak, Korney Chukovsky, as well as Robert Rozhdestvensky, Arseniy Tarkovsky and others are buried famous figures of literature and art.
Right at the Peredelkino railway station you will see an architectural monument of the 17th century – a temple Savior of the Transfiguration. The church was first mentioned in chronicles in 1646. There is a holy spring here, which Valentin Kataev captured in the story “The Holy Well”, as well as a chapel.
The residence of the Patriarch of Moscow and All Russia is also located here, which is located on the site of the estate of the boyar family of the Kolychevs, to whom Metropolitan Philip of Moscow belonged, who lived under Ivan the Terrible.
At the beginning of the 20th century, a sanatorium for miners was located on the site of the residence, and after the Great Patriotic War, the government allocated a place on the site for the patriarchal farmstead.
Today in Peredelkino, work is underway to create an Orthodox Heritage Center. In 2012, on behalf of the Patriarch, the colorful Cathedral of St. Igor of Chernigov was opened here.
Peredelkino is a truly amazing place: everyone will find something to do here to your liking, whether it's an active holiday, new discoveries, or peace in the company of a good book under the shade of centuries-old pines.
Photo: dimakig/Getty Images, Russian grig/commons.wikimedia.org, De Agostini Picture Library/Getty Images, DPA/picture-alliance/legion-media, Artyom Belevich/commons.wikimedia.org, Boleslav1/commons.wikimedia.org , vagant/Getty Images
First published in April 2018, partially updated in May 2022
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